We had X over to lunch on Sunday. She made a long trip home earlier this year, going via Hong Kong, Pekin and the Trans-Siberian railway to Moscow. But we didn’t gather that she really enjoyed it very much – she said that the ordinary Russian people seemed to be very frightened of being seen talking to foreigners, so she didn’t really feel very welcome; and the hotel was rather like a prison – your passport was taken away when you were signed in (and it was literally signed in – the young man from Intourist who met them off the train and took them to the hotel – they didn’t know which one, until they got there – actually got a receipt for them!) – and they were given an identity card which had to be shown to get either in or out of the hotel. The last straw was at the Polish border when they were just about to heave signs of relief, only to find themselves hauled out of the train because, owing to the train’s lateness, the witching hour had struck and their visas were a day out of date! However they were allowed to proceed after some anxious moments – and I gathered that X was not contemplating a return trip.
When we reached the camp, it was on the one hand a bit scruffy and ‘tripperish’ and in addition occupied by millions of invisibly small insects which were delighted with us as ‘afters’ to their ordinary lunch – so we were depressed. But walking on the beach came across an old dear who had been helping her 80 yr old husband wheel his fishing boat home on a beach trailer, and stayed to gossip about his catch, their golden wedding trip last Easter, and her opinions of the local camps – from which we returned to make a reconnaissance of this second camp and booked in for this morning. There was this to be said for the old place – it was about the only camp shower I recall which was too hot – the cold supply just couldn’t cope with any regularity with it! We managed to get packed up in time to drive out and park 200 yds down the road next to the church for an 8.45 service – and only missed the first hymn.
[from Big Bend, Texas] Just watched the sun go down – the wind is getting up in the trees and owls are hooting.
We didn’t know it was a service motel – no cooking facilities and expensive hotel attached for dinner etc. Praise be we’d had a super lunch so declined dinner and boiled eggs in the electric jug (laid on for coffee) but the damn things cracked and froth flowed out the top. I added a generous shake of salt to no avail. We were both hysterical by then. I thought I’d never get it clean but we’ve had coffee from the same jug since and it was OK.

[from the Ngamoko Track, NZ] I went up there! Just out from doing the big walk round Waikaremoane. 4 days of between 4 and 6 hours walking, including up to the top of the bluffs, and another 50 minutes today to get picked up by water taxi back across the lake. The bush was lovely and we met nice people. My legs held out very well but got a couple of sore blisters – otherwise I’d be ready to keep going… perhaps!
Had the bill for all the travel yesterday, though I haven’t got to pay it yet – and it is fairly shattering. But the main worry is (a) will they be fighting in Bangkok by the time we want to stop there on the way out and (b) will Russia have invaded China by the time we want to go to Hong Kong on the way back – or shall we get to UK and find we can’t get back at all? I don’t think the news is at all happy.
We had an ecstatic letter from X, all about the fun it was walking through her PNG forest, climbing over tree roots and wading rivers up to the armpits! But her house 2 days walk from the nearest village has running water and a loo thanks to having been built for people on a 5-year research scholarship!








